Follow our Track @ It was becoming difficult to pinpoint the reason as to why, but we have warmed to Greece, and in particular the Dodecanese. Perhaps an excuse for us still being here. But, the region is truly delightful!
It is now early June and approaching our two month anniversary since arriving into the country. The weather has improved considerably from the frigid cold that welcomed us in early April. Delightfully, the evenings remain fresh, the mornings crisp, until the noticeable effect of the sun takes hold and the day heats up. The perfect climate!
The journey to Greece had been busy and we were now relishing the downtime and novelties associated with a return to relative civilisation. Odd jobs are being ticked off onboard, and most days had us enjoying drinks and meals ashore. It was feeling a bit like coming out of a hibernation and feasting on amply portioned meals like it might be our last. As a result, I’m beginning to be a little more selective with my t-shirts, some weight gain meant x-large wasn’t the relaxed fit it was a few short weeks earlier. Another job to the list?
The Dodecanese
We are still well and truly on the shoulder of high season, so anchorages are not yet crowded, and shore businesses not yet in full swing. But, like the weather, the day on day change is palpable. Already we are seeing noticeably more charter yachts on the water, terraces are opening, and the weather is delightful! It wont be long now before things get crazy busy and this was something we aren’t particularly looking forward too. You can invest in ground tackle (anchor, anchor chain and appendages) ensuring you have the best, but in a crowded anchorage, all that investment counts for nought if a neighbouring boat has not a clue what they are doing. We don’t much like busy anchorages!
We have barely scratched the surface of what’s available for us to visit in amongst Greece’s vast cruising grounds. We remain in the Dodecanese, with its sun-drenched, historically rich archipelago. Though the name translates to “twelve islands,” the region actually consists of approximately 150 islands and islets, with Rhodes and Kos both serving as its primary hubs. Ashamedly, we hadn’t even yet visited 12 islands! But we were relishing the time we’ve had so far. And our time spent here was about to get a boost. A guest was on the way, shaping an airborne path from Melbourne to Rhodes. A VIP to be sure!
Melbourne to Rhodes, via the moon?
Having arrived into and then leaving a few weeks later, we found ourselves returning to Rhodes. Ostensibly to pick up some spare parts and have some repairs effected to a couple of our sails after the torrid time up the Red Sea, but two birds would be stunned with the one rock as my old man, despite geopolitical tensions in the region over which he might fly, had mustered the courage, and the requisite funds to arrange a flight from Melbourne to Rhodes, though seemingly via the moon!
A regular visitor to Luna Blu, the portside hull is commonly referred to as “Dad’s room”. And we were excited to have him return.
It’s always fun having him onboard. Age has not wearied his mind, though the same shouldn’t be said for his body. Still fantastically fit for age, it’s just that the mind thinks the body is capable of more. It is this inconsistency that often leads to some famously entertaining moments.
There are faster ways to get to Rhodes from Melbourne, for certain, but with the current cost of oil and a career spent negotiating his salary down rather than up, the only affordable way he could get from Melbourne to Rhodes, was via Bangkok, Istanbul and Athens with each leg having no code share relationship with the subsequent leg and the timing of transfers logistically akin to passing a 500 gram block of coon branded cheese through the eye of a sewing needle whilst performing the Macarena!
Predictably, a distress message was received indicating a connecting flight had been missed because of a later than scheduled departure from a previous departure port. But not to worry, the travel agent back in Australia was working on a solution. What we did know was that the expected arrival into Rhodes at midnight would not be happening. What we didn’t know was when the revised arrival into Rhodes would be. Radio silence followed that initial notification, and would remain in place until our hero walked through arrivals into the bight sunshine of Rhodes nearly 24hrs later. Fortunately we had been made aware of the carriers name and so a cursory look at it’s programmed flights from Athens into Rhodes we deduced that it was either the next scheduled inbound flight (noontime the following day) or, failing that, the second and last flight for that day, arriving 6pm. We sceptically stood at arrivals, not sure if he would be amongst the crowd coming through the door. We didn’t have to wait long until he appeared. He was a shadow of a man. Broken. Exhausted, but he had arrived, a mere 47 hours after having left Melbourne. As perspective, Crewed Missions (Apollo/Artemis) from earth usually take about 69 to 75 hours to enter the moons orbit.
Airlines 1 – Cyril 0
Kardamaina, Kos – Bang, help!
After a couple of days relaxing and looking around Rhodes, affording our newly arrived guest some time to get over the turmoil he had imposed upon himself, we left Rhodes and began exploring islands a little further north. A short first stop at Panormitis with its delightful monastery where we had been before and figured it nice enough to share again with Dad. A routine of walks in the morning around the bay, followed by a coffee and a pastry from the local bakery set the tone.
We then stretched our legs a little more and headed north to the island of Kos. Kos, another of Greece’s Dodecanese islands, is known for its abundant sandy beaches amd furtile soil, and famously known for growing a particular type of lettuce. It’s also rich with Greek and Roman landmarks, particularly in and around Kos Town. The harbor town is dominated by the 15th-century Neratzia Castle. South of the castle are the Ancient Agora ruins, with a temple, shrine and columns. The 3rd-century Casa Romana villa has lavish mosaics. But it wasn’t yet the town of Kos we were to visit, rather we headed to the south west corner and anchored in Kamari Bay where we spent a couple of nights enjoying the peace and quiet and taking advantage of the protection the bay offered against a stiff NW breeze.
Kardamaina (Kardamena) is a vibrant coastal resort town on the central southern coast of the island of Kos. Located just 30 km from Kos Town and 10 minutes from the airport, it offers visitors a perfect blend of lively beaches, bustling nightlife, and easy access to historical sites, and was our next stop after a short hop along the south coast.
The Town Quay of Kardamaina has enough room for perhaps no more than 5 yachts. Ferries and day trip tour boats take up most of the available space within the small quay, so you’d consider yourself fortunate if there was an available slot for docking stern too when you arrived. And on this day we were fortunate. Our second effort at Med Mooring only made the execution fractionally easier though it remains a tense operation, particularly in busier ports, like this was, where you need to thread a space bordered tightly between two other moored boats.
Having Dad onboard quickly highlighted our need for a passarelle. Up until now we had been using the dinghy as a makeshift gangway Lowering it between the stern of the yacht and the dock, then stepping down into the unsteady little boat before climbing up onto the quay. We usually tied it firmly in place, but it was still a wobbly affair, especially once drinks had been taken.
We were tied up in Kardameina for a couple of days. The quay was busy, and the bars and restaurants along the waterfront were filling with evening patrons. The three of us were sitting aboard Luna Blu, casually discussing dinner plans ashore, when Dad suddenly disappeared mid-conversation. Moments later, we heard the unmistakable sound of trouble: a long, drawn-out “Aaaaaaaaah!”
I rushed to the stern just in time to see Dad hanging from the edge of the dock, legs flailing wildly as he tried to find a foothold on the wall below. He had attempted the dinghy transfer alone and lost his balance. The dramatic yell had caught the attention of the entire quay, neighbouring boats, diners at waterfront tables, and passers-by all turned to watch the spectacle. There he was, arms locked over the top of the dock, body dangling just above the water, legs swinging like a cartoon character.
It was, without doubt, the funniest thing I’d seen in years. I burst out laughing while he hung there, his arms visibly tiring. As the prospect of a full plunge into the harbour grew more likely, I composed myself and leapt into the dinghy, climbed onto the dock, and hauled him up to safety. Once back on solid ground, the evidence of the struggle was clear: bloody shins and scraped skin.
We retired to the nearest bar for a well-deserved beer and a full debrief. Dad, true to form, would eventually leave the boat with more cuts, scars, and plasters than he had arrived with. His level of carelessness is truly world-class.
Town Quay 1 – Cyril 0
We hired a car for a day to visit Kos Town at the north eastern end of the island. This meant a scenic drive over the mountains that dominate the island, and amongst which rests the delightful little town of Zia, where we stopped to take in the views and enjoy a freddo espresso, which had become my coffee of choice since arriving into Greece.
Leros & The Castle of the Knights of Saint John
After leaving Kardamaina Town Quay, we sailed around to the eastern end of Kos and anchored just outside Kos Marina. From there we did some provisioning in the town of Kos, picked up some spares from local chandlery stores and then visited the Port Authority of Kos to check out of the island, next destination, Leros!
Still within the Dodecanese region and with a population of approximately 8,000 people which grows to 15,000 in the summer months, Leros is a popular destination for yachts, offering excellent shelter from the prevailing NW winds and Meltemi gusts. The island is home to a couple of larger boatyards where owners winter their boats out of the water and return for the high season, put boats into the water and set about enjoying their summer on the water.
Accessed from the east of the island is the small bay within sits Agia Marina, the main coastal town and primary commercial hub. Also within the Bay is the newly built, but as of yet unfinished, Alinda Marina. Im not sure whats unfinished about the place, but because of it, there are no fees levied against boats that use the docks, and therefore music to my wallet!!
From what I could gather, the Marina had been in this semi complete state for a couple of years already, which smelt very much of someone having over extended themselves commercially, and financiers pulling the pin. I hope one day it is completed, and I also hope to quiz the designer and ask why he’d made such a cock up of the configuration. This wasnt our problem, and we had tied up and were ready to explore what the area had to offer. Immediately obvious was that across the bay, atop the highest hill, rested a large fortification that commanded our attention!
The Castle of the Knights of St. John, also known as the Castle of Panagia or Panteli Castle, is a striking 14th-century fortress. Perched atop Apitiki hill. It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the villages of Pandeli, Platanos, and Agia Marina. You can drive to the castle via an asphalt road. Alternatively, for the adventurous, a scenic but steep pedestrian path of roughly 500 steps starts from the village below. The evwntual vantage point offers sweeping, 360-degree views of the Aegean Sea and Leros’s unique mountainous coastline.
And so, with appropriate footwear and some bottled water, we took on the pedestrian path. Starting later in the morning that would have otherwise been ideal, as the heat was building day on day now, we were on our way. Regular stops to appreciate the ever improving views were greatfully taken. Eventually we had made it to the top and the effort wasnt in vain. It was spectacular. Not only the views, but the fortification and Monestary within.
A credit has to be extended to our hero here. This was no small feat and at the age of whatever it might be nowadays, for him to have tackled this climb and survived probably points to the fact he’ll outlive us all. Sure, he’ll be eating through a straw and licking windows for fun, but he’ll out live us all!
The rest of the stay at Leros was spent beating a daily walk back and forth from the unfinished Marina where Luna Blu was tied up, to the main town of Agia Marina, a one-way roadside hike of only 3km, but done once, or twice, or thrice in a day and it began to take on an increasingly unpleasant experience. But the Freddo Espresso was worth it.
Time was ticking by and the three weeks onboard was fast approaching an end. We began to plan a return to Kos to despatch Dad to the airport for his torturous flight home. A euro jackpot lotto ticket was purchased in the hope a seat just forward of the goats could be afforded, but allas, we won bugger all and so goat class it was to be!
Kos again
We made the trip from Leros back to Kos in a day, which in turn afforded us an extra day or two to get Dad packed, ensuring clothing that could pre date the Ice Age wasnt included in his luggage, and enough time to enjoy a final night’s dinner together.
Its always wonderful having guests onboard the boat. Onboard routines and certain freedoms are temporarily interrupted. Bumps, and bruises and scars are earned by moving around unfamiliar surrounds. And its always an empty feeling returning to the boat have sent guests ashore, that takes a little time to get over amd adjust back to normal routines!
We now plan to move a little further north, while remaining in the Dodecanese. Patmos and Lipsi had been recommended. We were also conscious that our 90 days allowance inside Schengen was quickly drawing to an end, and so a hurried month moving west across the Greek Islands beckoned, before we pointed the boat toward Albania.
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